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Baywindow FAQby Richard Atwell(c) Copyright 2. Certain questions come up all the time on the various discussion boards, particularly the. Samba's popular Baywindow Forum. This is a FAQ made up from my replies to those topics and from some others in no particular order to get new owners up to speed. If there is no mention of model, late model baywindow and Type 4 engine are implied (there is more than enough Type I info out on the web that applies equally to bus and beetle). There are 1. 90 answers to popular questions in this FAQ. Request for info: Help make this FAQ better.

If you have knowledge about the following topics (or any other) please contact me. Info I'm currently researching: Sunroof restoration info (part swaps, seals, cables, plastic ends, etc). You've bought a compression tester but it doesn't contain any instructions. Here's what to do: if you have hydraulic lifters, run the engine the night before for 3. Just keep them snug. If you are using the ignition key to power the starter you'll need to pull the 1.

Bentley says 2. 2 ft. If you have to rely on the key to run the starter also remove the white wire to disable the injectors. The bigger problem is that the starter, via double relay, is going to run the fuel pump so it has to be disabled by pulling the plug on the firewall. The remote starter I like is the one from Sears (#2. Sunpro/Actron) with the light on the top that tells you the power is on.

It was recently brought to my attention that it's no longer at Sears but I did find CP7. Actron website which is exactly the same version. You've got a 6. 8- 7. Virtually nobody does this.. You've got a 7. 2- 7. Type I engine from a beetle or a 6. You've got a reason besides the fact you want less torque, want a harder working engine and no one is going to stop you.

First the facts: 6. Type I engine (dual port heads in 1. L Type IV engine. L Type IV engine. L Type IV engine. L Type IV engine (Vanagon style)The 7.

Porsche engine as every person selling a bus would like you to believe. The engine was first used on the 4. VWs and also used on the Porsche 9. VW and Porsche. It's more correct to say that Porsche used a VW engine. It shares as much in common with the 9. Type I engine does (zip).

Not all Type 4 bus engines are the same: displacement matters. Size. Bore. Stroke.

HP@RPMft. lbs@RPM1. As the numbers illustrate, there is substantially more torque available in the 1.

L engine and even more in the 2. L engines which is the favorite choice when time comes to replace the original engine. It's that 7. 1mm stroke that gives the 2. L it's extra oomph. In a heavy bus, you need all you can get.

Remember that torque is what moves the bus around. HP is simply derived from torque (HP = torque x RPM / 5. HP numbers from a stock bus engine. The beetle engine support was the transmission carrier but the bus had a special engine mount affectionately called the mustache bar. It mounted to the rear (pump side) of the bus case.

Because of this, you'll either need a . To adapt the mustache bar to a regular case, you'll need these parts: the oil pump adapter plate (Bugpack)two engine hangers (6.

See these installation photos of this conversion courtesy of Full Moon Bus Club member . The weight of the engine with stock exhaust is probably 4- 5x the weight of the transmission. The transmission carrier is not at a balancing point on the body so the unbalanced weight of the engine will be bourn by the nosecone pressing against the torsion housing because the rear support bar is missing. If you have a 6. 8- 7.

The next problem you'll have is finding the compatible engine tin to use. You'll need to get the all of the tin from a 7. Fiberglass Engine Tin Adapter from Bus. Depot. Vanagon engine swaps are complicated by the fact that the body changed so much: Engine mounts are not the same. The vanagon holes are bigger and since you have to use the baywindow mounting bar drill the holes in the brackets larger so you can use the Vanagon bolts.

The breather box is enclosed and the hose is not the same size so you'll need to adapt it for use with FI if that's your plan. The dipstick location is on top but the baywindow hatch opening won't easily let you remove a dipstick from that location even though the dipstick is the flexible style that modern cars use.

Use the Baywindow oil filler and dipstick tube and block off the dipstick location on top of the engine. The oil filler was designed to be behind a little flap on the body.

You'll have to fabricate some engine tin to accomodate the location of the oil filler or use the baywindow version. The heads are square exhaust ports and won't mate up with any 7. Purchasing the one- year only 7.

The best advice is to use earlier heads with oval exhaust ports. Use the baywindow alternator and fan shroud and engine tin.

Use the Vanagon oil breather. Steal the Vanagon electronic ignition system (distributor, coil, module) if it works but leave the idle stabilizer off. The oil pressure light (or idiot light as it's called) comes on between 2. BAR). By the time it. Install an oil pressure warning gauge to monitor the general health of your engine. As the bearings wear the clearances increase and this allows the oil to flow more easily resulting in a lower operating pressure.

Oil pressure also varies with temperature. A standard VDO oil pressure gauge only goes to 8. VDO. Not a big. deal. These are the steps I trust to prevent valve cover leaks: get yourself a set of original covers that are flat, painted black and haven't rusted. You need to start with reasonably flat surfaces (new is best). After a while they loose their spring and put less tension of the valve covers.

Hylomar to the valve cover sealing surface attach gasket and secure the cover with the bailthe head side of the cork must be dry Notes: for some reason the correct orientation is with the VW logo upside downuse grease on the outside of the cover to help the bail slide into position quickly do not reuse gaskets. If you remove it, spend $1 and use another one never use any sealant that will cure because it will be a bitch to get clean the next time. Hylomar is grease/gas/oil proof and won't cure. It is the best adhesive I know for the job that works and doesn't create problems down the road. If you have solid lifters you might want to skip the hylomar step because you'll be opening up the covers and putting in a new gasket more often than if you have hydraulic lifters. If you are reusing old valve covers and bails, the hylomar is a must otherwise the new parts go a long way towards stopping leaks on their own. According to VW, a heathy Type IV engine is like so: 1.

These numbers were obtained from a compression test. The maximum psi difference between the highest and lowest reading should be 2. Those are the specs but we all know a bus with under 1. Cara Meng Hack Akun Twitter Tanpa Software more. If you have a W or EA engine with 8. All these numbers are readings taken at sea level so they go lower as you climb in altitude.

Divide your readings by these factors before comparing them to the specs otherwise you will rebuild prematurely. Altitude. 50. 01. Factor. 0. 9. 87. As good as compression results seem, you can only truly know the state of the heads by performing a leak down test. Open valves, cracked valves, broken rings and gaskets can be identified easily when compression values only indicate some problem exists.

Another measure of engine health is oil pressure. VW says that you should see 4. SAE3. 0 oil at 1. F when the engine rpm is 2. The wear limit is 2.

As the bearings wear the tolerances increase and this causes the oil pressure to drop. Check the vacuum level. Engines driven with low vacuum levels (and missing engine compartment seals) tend to overheat. Avoid ultra- budget rebuilders like GEX because they have a terrible reputation. Choose a reputable firm like AVP or avoid an assembly line rebuilder all together and choose a small rebuilder that will build your engine with care. Even better? Rebuild it yourself.

See my Hydraulic Lifters article on the subject.